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New to Climbing? Here’s How to Use Your Climbing Shoes Like a Pro

Ever feel like your feet are slipping off holds, no matter how hard you try? You might think the problem is a lack of strength, but climbing is all about footwork—and that starts with understanding how to use your climbing shoes correctly.

Unlike regular sneakers, climbing shoes are designed to maximize contact with footholds, allowing you to stand on small edges, smear on volumes, and move with confidence. But many newer climbers develop habits that make climbing harder than it needs to be.

This guide will help you use your climbing shoes effectively, refine your footwork, and choose the right pair for your climbing goals.

Climbing Shoes: The Key to Better Footwork

While it’s possible to climb in regular sneakers, modern climbing shoes have revolutionized the sport by enhancing grip and precision. They provide two major advantages:

Sticky Rubber – Specialized rubber allows climbers to grip small footholds securely.
Precision Fit – Climbing shoes conform to the foot, creating natural balance points for better control and weight distribution.

Every climbing shoe has three primary balance points:

Inside edge – The most commonly used part of the shoe, located near the base of the big toe.
Outside edge – Found near the base of the pinky toe, often used for specific techniques.
Toe – The pointed front of the shoe, great for fitting into pockets or specialized foot placements.

To climb efficiently, mastering foot placement is key. Here’s how to get the best performance from your climbing shoes.

How to Use Your Climbing Shoes for Maximum Performance

Stand on the Inside Edge – Theinside edge (near the base of the big toe) is your strongest, most stable weight-bearing point. Use it as your primary contact point on footholds for better control and balance.

Avoid Standing on the Ball of Your Foot – Placing weight on the ball or instep reduces stability and makes it harder to pivot or adjust. Instead, focus on inside-edge placement to maintain precision.

Use the Outside Edge When Needed – The outside edge (near your pinky toe) is helpful for specific moves like backsteps and drop-knees, but it’s less stable than the inside edge. Use it strategically, not as a default.

Trust Your Big Toe – Climbing shoes are designed to concentrate power into the toe box, allowing you to stand on small holds with confidence. Engage your toes and trust that your shoes will support your weight.

Stay Light on Your Feet – Avoid stomping or pressing too hard into footholds. Light, deliberate foot placementssave energy and help you move more efficiently.

Footwork Adjustments to Improve Your Climbing

Many new climbers struggle with footwork because they don’t trust their shoes or use them inefficiently. Here are two common habits that can hold you back—and how to fix them.

1. Relying on the Ball of the Foot or Instep

Some climbers shy away from using the inside edge because standing on a small point feels unstable at first. Instead, they place their weight on the ball of the foot (where toes connect) or even the instep. This leads to several problems:

Creates Instability – The ball of the foot or instep is a poor balance point, especially on small footholds. If your foot shifts even slightly, it’s easy to slip off, forcing you to overuse your arms and fatigue faster.

Limits Mobility – If you rely on the ball of your foot, yourestrict your movement options. It becomes harder to rotate your body efficiently, leading to awkward positions that make reaching the next hold more difficult.

Lack of Trust in Your Shoes – Many climbers worry that their big toe isn’t strong enoughto support their weight. However, climbing shoes distribute weight across the entire foot, making small footholds more reliable than they seem.

Fix the habit: Train yourself to trust your shoesby using theinside edge as your default foot placement.

2. Overusing the Outside Edge

The outside edge is useful for specific techniques like twist-locks, backsteps, and drop-knees, but relying on it too often can createinefficiencies.

Throws Off Your Balance – In vertical and slab climbing, keeping your hips close to the wall is key for good technique. Standing on the outside edge can cause one hip to rotate away from the wall, shifting your center of gravity and making it harder to stay balanced.

Leads to Overusing Your Arms – When your center of gravity is too far from the wall, you’ll have to pull harder with your arms, leading to unnecessary strain and fatigue.

Fix the habit: Stick to the inside edge for balance and save the outside edge for specific moves when necessary.

Choosing the Right Climbing Shoe for Your Needs

Not all climbing shoes are the same! Depending on your experience level and the type of climbing you’re doing, different shoes will provide better performance.

Shoe Profiles

Neutral (All-Day Comfort) – Best for beginners, crack climbing, and long sessions. Flat profile, comfortable fit.
Moderate (All-Around Performance) – Slightly downturned for better power transfer. Good for vertical and overhanging climbs.
Aggressive (Performance-Oriented) – Sharply downturned, focusing power on the big toe. Ideal for steep overhangs and tiny footholds.

Shoe Flexibility & Sensitivity

Stiff Shoes – Provide more support, great for beginners and crack climbers.
Moderate Flexibility – A balance between support and sensitivity.
Soft Shoes – Offer maximum sensitivity for feeling footholds, but wear out faster.

Closure Systems: Velcro, Laces, or Slip-Ons?

Velcro – Quick on/off, popular for gym and sport climbing.
Lace-Up – Most adjustable for a precise fit, great for all-day climbing.
Slip-On – Super lightweight but less secure, best for bouldering or crack climbing.

How to Develop Better Footwork from the Start

Now that you understand foot placement and shoe selection, here’s how to train your footwork for maximum efficiency:

Look at Your Feet Before You Step – Many climbers focus too much on their hands and forget about their feet. Watch your foot placement before shifting weight.

 Use Quiet Feet – Try placing your feet softly and precisely. If your foot lands loudly, you’re being too rough with your movement.

Practice Smearing – On walls without footholds, press your shoe flat against the wall and use friction to stay balanced (especially on slabs).

Stay on the Inside Edge – Unless a technique requires otherwise, default to standing on the inside edge for better balance and control.

Final Thoughts: The Foundation of Good Climbing is Footwork

Mastering efficient footwork is one of the fastest ways to improve your climbing. By avoiding common habits—standing on the ball of the foot or overusing the outside edge—you’ll climb with better balance, require less upper-body strength, and move more efficiently.

Summary: Key Takeaways

Use the inside edge for stability and balance.
Trust your big toe—your climbing shoe is designed to support your weight.
Avoid standing on the ball/instep for better control.
Use the outside edge sparingly for specific techniques.
Choose the right shoe profile based on your climbing style.

By following these principles, you’ll climb smarter, not harder—and progress faster in your climbing journey! 

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Introduction to Lead Climbing

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Welcome to Philadelphia Rock Gyms!

Welcome to Philadelphia Rock Gyms!

Get 20% off your first visit and start building strength, community, and confidence—together.

Get 20% off your first visit and start building strength, community, and confidence—together.

Philadelphia Rock Gyms membership

Terms and Conditions

Philadelphia Rock Gyms (“PRG”) provide membership plans to allow customers access to our various climbing facilities during normal operating hours.

By accepting these Terms and Conditions, which govern our membership plans, you (“Client”) agree to the following:

  1. Membership

    • For all membership plans, provided that you, the Client, are not in default and subject to these Terms and Conditions after the initial term commitment of your membership plan has expired, your membership will automatically renew monthly until terminated. You will be notified of rate increases at least 30 days before automatic rollover renewal.
    • Automatic Monthly Rollover may be canceled with a written notice delivered to your home facility’s address. Cancelation requests must be submitted by the 25th of the month to cancel for the consecutive month after the initial term is complete.
    • PRG may offer several different membership plans. Some membership plans may have differing conditions and limitations, which will be disclosed at your sign-up or in other communications made available to you.
  1. Promotional Offers

    • PRG may occasionally present special promotional offers, plans, or memberships (“Offers”). PRG determines offer eligibility at its sole discretion, and we reserve the right to revoke an Offer and put your account on hold if we determine you are not eligible. Members of households with an existing or recent PRG membership may not be eligible for certain introductory Offers. The eligibility requirements and other limitations and conditions will be disclosed when you sign-up for the Offer or in other communications.
  2. Billing and Cancellation

    • Billing Cycle. The membership fee for PRG and any other charges you may incur in connection with your use of the service, such as initiation fees, maintenance fees, or possible transaction fees and taxes, will be charged to your Payment Method on the specific payment date indicated when you purchased your membership plan. The length of your billing cycle will depend on the type of membership plan that you purchase. Membership fees are fully earned upon payment. Sometimes, your payment date may change, for example, if your Payment Method was not successfully settled when you changed your membership plan or if your paid membership began on a day not contained in a given month. We may authorize your Payment Method in anticipation of membership or service-related charges through various methods, including authorizing it up to approximately one month of service as soon as you sign up.
    • Payment Methods. To purchase a PRG membership plan, you must provide one or more accepted Payment Methods. You authorize PRG to charge any Payment Method associated with your account in case your primary Payment Method is declined or no longer available to us to pay your membership fee(s). You remain responsible for any uncollected amounts. Suppose payment is not successfully settled due to expiration or insufficient funds, and you do not cancel your account. In that case, we may suspend your access to all PRG locations until we have successfully charged a valid Payment Method. For some Payment Methods, the issuer may charge you certain fees, such as foreign transaction fees or other fees relating to processing your Payment Method. Check with your Payment Method service provider for details.
    • Default and Late Payments. Should you default on any payment obligation as called for in these Terms and Conditions, PRG will have the right to declare the entire remaining balance due and payable, and you agree to pay allowable interest and all costs of collection, including but not limited to collection agency fees, court costs, and attorney fees. A default occurs when any payment due under these Terms and Conditions is more than ten days late. You will be charged a late fee if any monthly payment becomes more than ten days past due. An additional service fee will be assessed for any check, draft, credit card, or order returned for insufficient funds or other reasons. If the Member is paying a membership fee(s) by electronic funds transfer (EFT), PRG reserves the right to draft via EFT all amounts owed by the Member, including any and all late fees and service fees. Note: Members paying monthly dues by EFT are subject to a $5.00 per month increase in monthly dues if EFT payment is stopped or changed. This will not affect any other provisions of this agreement.
    • Cancellation. After the initial term commitment of your membership plan has expired, all membership plans will automatically renew every month until terminated. Automatic Monthly Rollover may be canceled at any time upon a written notice delivered to your home facility’s address. Notice must be given by the 25th of the month.
    • Suppose you wish to cancel your membership before your membership plans’ initial term commitment. In that case, you may cancel by delivering in person or by mailing by certified mail, return receipt requested, or written notice to the Philadelphia Rock Gym (PRG) at your home PRG facility’s address. The notice must say that you do not wish to be bound to the membership Terms and Conditions and must be delivered in person or mailed before 12 midnight of the third business day after you agree to the Terms and Conditions of your membership plan.
    • In some cases, you may also cancel your membership before the initial term commitment is expired if you accepted these Terms and Conditions before the home climbing facility was completed, if the facility moves or goes out of business, if you become permanently disabled, or if you move outside of an additional forty-five-mile radius from your home PRG facility. If you cancel, PRG may be entitled to collect and/or retain a certain portion of the total membership plan price.
    • i. Client can cancel their membership without penalty within three business days of purchase and accepting the Terms and Conditions. Upon receipt of the cancellation notice under this paragraph, PRG shall refund the Client all monies, including any initiation fee paid under the membership plan.
    • ii. Client is permitted to cancel their membership if PRG closes for more than 30 consecutive days and PRG fails to provide a comparable facility within ten miles of the location designated as your home facility. Upon receipt of notice of cancellation under this paragraph, PRG shall refund to the Client all monies paid more than an amount computed by dividing the full membership plan price, including any initiation fee, by the number of weeks in the membership term and multiplying the result by the number of weeks elapsed in the membership term.
    • iii. Client or his/her legal representative may cancel their membership if the Client dies or becomes permanently disabled. A permanent disability means a condition that precludes the Client from using one-third or more of the facilities for six consecutive months or more, and the condition is verified in writing by a physician. Upon receipt of notice of cancellation under this paragraph, PRG shall refund the Client all monies paid more than an amount computed by dividing the full membership plan price, including any initiation fee, by the number of weeks in the membership term and multiplying the result by the number of weeks elapsed in the membership term, less a predetermined fee not exceeding $100.00, or if more than half of the life of the membership plan has expired, a predetermined fee not exceeding $50.00. In case of a permanent disability, PRG may require the Client to submit to a physical examination by a physician agreeable to the Client and PRG. PRG shall bear the additional cost of the examination.
    • iv. Client may cancel their membership if he/she moves more than 45 additional miles from their PRG home facility and cannot transfer the membership to a comparable facility within ten miles of his/her new residence. The client must provide proof of a new address. Upon receipt of notice of cancellation under this paragraph, PRG shall refund to the Client all monies paid more than an amount computed as of the date of relocation by dividing the full membership plan price, including any initiation fee, by the number of weeks in the membership term, less a predetermined fee not exceeding $100.00, or if more than half of the life of the membership plan has expired, a predetermined fee not exceeding $50.00.
    • v. To cancel your membership according to paragraphs (i), (ii), (iii), or (iv), the Client shall notify PRG of cancellation in writing by personal delivery or by certified mail, return receipt requested, in either case to the address of your home facility; all money to be refunded upon cancellation of the Membership plan shall be paid within 40 days of receipt of the notice of cancellation. If the Client has executed a credit, lien, or automatic funds transfer agreement with PRG to pay for PRG services, any negotiable instrument or credit of lien agreement executed by the Client shall be returned, and any automatic transfer shall be canceled within 40 days after the notice of cancellation.
    • Changes to the Price and Membership Plans. PRG reserves the right to change our membership plans or adjust pricing for our service or any components thereof in any manner and at any time as we may determine in our sole and absolute discretion after your initial or renewal term expires. Except as otherwise expressly provided for in these Terms and Conditions, any price changes or changes to your membership plan will take effect following at least 30 days’ email notice to you. You may choose not to accept any price increase by canceling your membership in writing by personal delivery or by certified mail, return receipt requested, in either case to the address of your home facility.  Such termination will become effective thirty days after PRG receives your written notice.
    • No Refunds. Payments are nonrefundable unless otherwise stated in these Terms and Conditions, and unless otherwise provided, there are no refunds or credits for partially used membership periods. Following any cancellation, however, you will continue to have access to your membership through the end of your current billing period. At any time and for any reason, we may provide a refund, discount, or other consideration to some or all of our members (“credits”). The amount and form of such credits, and the decision to provide them, are at our sole and absolute discretion. The provision of credits in one instance does not entitle you to credits in the future for similar instances, nor does it obligate us to provide credits in the future under any circumstance.
  1. Miscellaneous

    • Under these Terms and Conditions, no further payments shall be due to anyone, including any purchaser of any note associated with or contained in these Terms and Conditions, if the home facility ceases operation and fails to offer a comparable alternate location within ten miles of your home facility.
    • If PRG temporarily closes for less than 30 days, the Client shall receive an extension of the membership term equal to the period during which the facility was closed.
    • The Client is permitted to extend the term of the membership plan at no additional cost for some time equal to the duration of a disability where the Client has a disability that precludes the Client from using one-third or more of the facilities for less than six months, and the disability is verified in writing by a physician.

Notice: Any PRG member or customer is subject to all claims and defenses a debtor could assert against the seller of goods or services obtained pursuant hereto or with the proceeds. Recovery hereunder by a debtor shall not exceed amounts paid by such debtor.

By accepting these Terms and Conditions, the Client acknowledges that they have read and agreed to the Terms and Conditions in full.

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